WWI: A Wrap-Up

What a wonderful time we had in France. Here is what we learned: Northeastern France is a really muddy place. Having GPS makes a world of difference. Whoever rides shotgun gets to look out the window and enjoy the ride instead of staring at a map and turns are...

WW1: 11-11-11

The Museum of the Great War officially opened on 11 November 2011, the 93rd anniversary of the Armistice. The ceremony was intended to take place at 11:00, apparently, but was pushed down to 3:00; speeches aired at 4:00 suggesting that there were further delays. Doors...

WWI: Prolegomena to 11-11-11

We learned of the imminent opening of a museum dedicated to World War One from a cashier at a Carréfour market somewhere on the outskirts of Meaux as we headed into our final week in France. Her English was superb, but then, she said, she was half-English. Once...

WWI: The Valley of the Painters of the Grand Morin

Neither I nor my Dear One thought Crécy-la-Chapelle would have much to recommend it beyond access to the Champagne battlefields and a relatively short drive to Charles de Gaulle for our flight home. There were some charming pictures of the town center in spring and...

WWI: Nice Digs

We have only a few days left before we must find our way to Aéroport Charles de Gaulle. The penultimate day of our travels, Friday, carries the magical numbers 11-11-11. At 11 o’clock I hope to be focused on that moment 93 years ago when the War to End All Wars ended....

WWI: I have so many questions…

So much of this trip has been about discovering a grandfather who was never a part of my memory.  David Sanford Cutler died suddenly from what may have been a staph infection in 1926.  His sons Calvin (my father) and David were only two and four years old...